Free SWIRL Beads!

To enter, you need to be a member of lampworketc forum and have purchased my SWIRL e-book.

To thank the support of all my tutorial customers, I would like to give these two beads away - both were made as examples of the gravity swirl techniques using non silver glass for my SWIRL e-book.




If you have purchased SWIRL, please enter your full name (for cross referencing purposes) in the thread via the link below.

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128403

If you haven't purchased SWIRL, take advantage of the special introductory price that ends April 30 and still be eligible for this drawing!

Deadline: Friday May 1, AM PST. I will draw two names for the two beads in the afternoon!

Working with a Fuji PXR3 Digital Controller

When you turn on your kiln, it will automatically ramp up to the Set Point temperature. If you are batch annealing, this should be set to match room temperature and you will immediately pick a preset program for batch annealing and run that program (ramp up to 950 over 2 hours, etc.)

If you are garage annealing, pre-pick the Program you want to run later and set your Set Point to your desired garage annealing temperature (I set mine 20F lower than my annealing temperature to compensate for the spiking of the temperature when you open and close the kiln door). Hours later, run the program after you finish your last piece. This controller does not have a "skip" function.

Set Point
Set point is turned on automatically when you turn the kiln on. This is your garaging temperature. If you batch anneal, this should be set at room temperature.

To program Set Point:
Press SEL once
Press UP ARROW until it shows your garaging temp (I garage 20 degrees lower than annealing temp)
Wait 20 sec and your kiln will ramp up as fast as it can


Programs
You can store two programs in the PXR3. SV1-SV4 is Program 1 and SV5-SV6 is Program 2. You may re-program your kiln while the set point is ramping up.

To program Program 1:
Press & Hold SEL until you see P
Press DOWN ARROW (a couple of times) until you see SV1
Press SEL
Press UP or DOWN ARROW to select the temperature (e.g.950F)
Press SEL
Press DOWN ARROW once to 7N1R (length of time to Ramp up to 950F)
Press SEL
Press UP or DOWN ARROW to select the length of time to Ramp up (0:10 – 10 mins)
Press SEL
Press DOWN ARROW once to 7N1S (length of time to Soak at this temperature)
Press SEL
Press UP or Down ARROW to select the length of time to soak at 950F

Press SEL
Press Down ARROW to SV2
Press SEL
Press UP or DOWN ARROW to select temperature you will ramp down to (750F)
Press SEL
Press DOWN ARROW once to 7N2R (length of time to Ramp down to 750F)
Press SEL
Press UP or DOWN ARROW to select the length of time to Ramp down to 750F (2:30)
Press SEL
Press DOWN ARROW once to 7N2S (length of time to Soak at this temperature)
Press SEL
Press UP or Down ARROW to select the length of time to soak at 750F (0:15)

You may leave the rest of the segments – SV3, SV4 of this program – at 0 so your kiln will just turn off after 750F. MAKE SURE YOU SELECT PROGRAM 1.

If you want to have a program for, say, boro or batch annealing – do the same thing for SV5 to SV8 which is Program 2.

Running a Program
Press and hold SEL until you see STAT
Press Down ARROW once to PTn
Press SEL once, it will show the last program you ran (1 or 2)
Press Up or Down Arrow to select a different program if desired
Wait 20 seconds for the kiln to go back to current temperature display

Press and hold SEL until you see PROG
Press SEL once, it will show OFF
Press the Up Arrow once, it will show a BLINKING RUN
Press SEL TWICE, it will show a stationary RUN
Your kiln is now running!

Terranova 2.1 and Luna 2.1

The latest release of these two Double Helix striking silver glass are slightly different in rod form, thus earning the version name "2.1." we have been asked the differences, if any, between the two versions - 2.1 versus 2.

Stephanie Bonniwell and I had the opportunity to test them and here are our observations. (For Stephanie's beautiful beads, check out her blog and her Etsy store!)

Stephanie: Luna 2.1 developed a deep amber tone fast. As we know, capturing the potential of the first strike works well with this glass. It developed colors best with a core heat. Luna2 reminds me of a lighter amber version of Terra.

Hayley: Luna 2.1 yields colors faster than Luna 2. Other than that, there is almost no difference.


This bead was made with Luna 2.0 on the top half and Luna 2 on the bottom half.


Stephanie: Terranova 2.1 developed colors with various heat treatments and didn't require a core heat to work. I think it responds better to a deeper heat to induce more color and striations, but it isn't a requirement. It was a welcome surprise to see more color development in the kiln. I like the deeper shades and striations.

Hayley: Terranova 2.1 is slightly less purple and more green as you are working the glass and it kilns strikes richer. I think it has a bit of the characteristics of Pandora. I also think that those people who complained about Terranova 2 being a bit dark would be delighted with Terranova 2.1. Terranova 2.1 seems to yield striations more readily than 2 as well.



Terranova 2.1, heavily encased with Double Helix Aether Clear (our FAVORITE clear!)

I love e-junkie!

Lydia Muell of Ashton Jewels is one of my favorite and most admired lampworkers. She has five lampworking tutorials and I own all of them! (The latest one, The Painted Rose Bead, was gifted to me by my good friend, Stephanie Bonniwell, another one of my favorite lampworkers!) I loved the ease of purchasing her four tutorials and was directed immediately to an instant download page after my transaction was completed via PayPal. I finally asked her one day about the program she used . . . that was the first time I heard of e-junkie .

Then I forgot about it!

Unfortunately we lived in a time where everything is about instant gratification. I tried setting up a policy that pdfs would be emailed within one business day upon purchase but no one wanted to wait until Monday what they bought Friday evening! Then there were those times when, for whatever reasons, the pdf couldn't get transferred. It's emailed but either never showed up on the recipient's end or showed up as gobbledy-gook!

After SE3 came out, I started seriously thinking about how much better the process would be for both myself AND my customers if an instant download was set up. The customers don't need to wait, EVER! Moreover, I am not tied to the computer all the time!

So FINALLY when Swirl was ready to be released, I signed up for a one-week free trial with e-junkie . Its user interface was very easy to use and in no time, I had my account set up, product list created, pdfs uploaded and everything was done through this blog! I should really have signed up with e-junkie SOONER!

Here is a summary list of the benefits of this amazing program:
• Instant download
• FREE one-week trial
• $5.00/month for maximum of 10 products and 50MB disk space
• CART Button generated with html codes for your website or blog
• NO listing fee
• NO percentage of final sales price is charged

S W I R L – an e-book on gravity swirl, bicone shaping, silver glass

This is a three-in-one tutorial for both newer and more experienced lampworkers. Using the techniques on how to make a gravity swirl bead, I will share with you how to shape a perfect bicone AND show you how to work with using both striking and reducing silver glass on a single bead. Please do note that the silver glass part of this tutorial is secondary.



For those of you who are not ready for silver glass, I will show you examples of beads made with regular production COE104 glass. Steps 1 through 32 will remain the same, you can easily follow along using non-silver glass alternatives.

This tutorial is set up so that you can follow the step-by-step instructions easily on the main section of the page with additional tips on the side bar. When you are at the torch, you can just concentrate on the tasks at hand and not have to read the unnecessary text.

There is a lot of information after the tutorial, including my favorite - Shaping 101! As many of you know . . . my passion is silver glass . . . but my obsession is perfectly shaped and executed forms. If you have ever wondered how I made my beads stand up on both ends perfectly perpendicular to the table top, here is your chance to find out! I firmly believe that this is an important foundation for new lampworkers to acquire. So even if you are not ready for silver glass, you can benefit greatly from the Shaping 101 portion of this e-book!

In order to fully utilize this tutorial, you will need to make a bead that’s about 2"/50mm long. Having said that, you may choose to only do the middle swirl and omit the two side swirls completely. In this case, you may work on a shorter bead.

Here is a sample page:



This e-book is 21 pages with over 50 images. File size is 2.8mb and is available for instant download right here on our blog - first item on right sidebar - on click below. Thank you!

SWIRL – pdf format, $21.00


Please note that this item cannot be returned.

SE 3 – Third Silver Color How To e-Booklet

SE3 – Third Silver Color How To e-Booklet
- 72 pages
- over 180 beads with description
- list of silver glass by manufacturers
- index for each silver glass used in the booklet
- step-by-step instruction on striking silver glass with photos
- step-by-step instruction on reducing silver glass with photos



This is the Low-Resolution Version of SE3 – Third Silver Color How To e-Booklet and is for viewing on your computer. You may also print one (1) copy of this using your printer at home. No authorization will be given with this version to print at a service bureau such as Kinko's. Please make sure you have high-speed internet connection. Instant download is available here on our Blog!

* * * * * * * * * * * * *

The spiral bound, printed book format of SE 3 Third Silver Color How To Booklet is available at lulu.com.


* * * * * * * * * * * * *
The CD version contains a high-resolution pdf of SE3 – Third Silver Color How To e-booklet, as well as an authorization letter, also in pdf format, to print one (1) copy of the booklet at a service bureau, such as Kinko's. This CD version will be mailed to you via first class USPS shipping within one business day after purchase. Please allow two business days for international shipping. Available at our ArtFire store.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *
To determine if you want a high-resolution or a low-resolution version: High-resolution = good quality, crisp, and sharp images Even if you don't plan on taking this to a service bureau to print, as long as you have a decent inkjet printer at home, this may be the version to go with. Low-resolution = for viewing on your computer monitor If your home printer is just adequate or if you only plan on viewing the pdf on your computer monitor only, then this version is perfect for you. Hope this helps!


SE3 – instant download for $18.00

Please note that this item cannot be returned.

SE 2 – Second Silver Color How To e-Booklet

The Second Silver Color How To e-Booklet
- 65 pages
- over 170 beads with description
- list of silver glass by manufacturers
- index for each silver glass used in the booklet



This is the Low-Resolution Version of the Second Silver Color How To e-Booklet and is for viewing on your computer. You may also print one (1) copy of this using your printer at home. No authorization will be given with this version to print at a service bureau such as Kinko's. Please make sure you have high-speed internet connection before ordering this version.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *

A high-resolution pdf of the Second Silver Color How To e-Booklet is available in our ArtFire store. An authorization letter, also in pdf format, to print one (1) copy of the booklet at a service bureau, is included. This version is in a CD format and will be mailed to you via first class USPS shipping within one business day after purchase. Please allow two business days for international shipping.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *

To determine if you want a high-resolution or a low-resolution version:

High-resolution = good quality, crisp, and sharp images
Even if you don't plan on taking this to a service bureau to print, as long as you have a decent inkjet printer at home, this may be the version to go with.

Low-resolution = for viewing on your computer monitor
If your home printer is just adequate or if you only plan on viewing the pdf on your computer monitor only, then this version is perfect for you.

Hope this helps!

SE2 – instant download for $15.00

Please note that this item cannot be returned.

SE 1 – First Silver Color How To e-Booklet

The First Silver Color How To e-Booklet:
- 30 pages
- over 50 beads with description
- index for each silver glass used in the e-booklet



This is the first e-booklet and contains less than 1/3 of the amount of beads and description as the other e-booklets. This was included in the CD version of SE2 free of charge but with the release of SE3, it's too complicated for me to keep including on one and not the other. I was going to just not offer it at all but since I do receive request from those who want the complete set . . . I am offering it at a very nominal fee, available only in low-res pdf.

SE1 – instant download for $5.00


Please note that this item cannot be returned.

Silver Glass 101 – Reducing Silver Glass Tutorial – Psyche and Triton

My sister, Helen, and I did this reducing silver glass tutorial. Enjoy!



Step 1
Start by making a round base bead of Effetre Opal Yellow.



Step 2
Adjust to a small oxydizing flame by turning down both the propane/natural gas and the oxygen.



Step 3
Begin by working at the right side of the tip of the flame.



Step 4
Apply stringer decoration using Double Helix Psyche with the base bead below the flame. The base bead should be fairly cool at this point. The radiant heat of the flame will keep the bead from cracking.



Step 5
Keep the stringer at the right edge of the flame, never inside the flame. Apply three scroll designs.



Step 6
Add dots where needed to complete the design.



Step 7
Melt in stringer decoration slightly, making sure that there are no undercut on any of the dots. Let bead cool until the glow is gone (do the under the table test).



Step 8
Create a reduction flame by reducing the oxygen, increasing the propane, or both. The yellow candles of your flame should be about 1.5-2"/38-50mm long. Gently reheat the bead at the tip of the flame.



Step 9
Continue reducing by bouncing in and out of the flame until desired effect is achieved.



Other Combinations
Try Double Helix Triton on Effetre Opalino Nile Green (see below). Experiment with different effects such as leaving the stringer decoration raised, melting it in slightly, or melting it all the way into the base bead.

Other combinations to try, as shown in main photograph:
• Triton on Vetrofond Transparent Red
• Psyche on Effetre Pale Amber

Step 1
Apply Triton stringer to a round base bead of Opalino Nile Green.



Step 2
Melt in stringer decoration slightly. Let bead cool until the glow is gone. Follow steps 8 to 9 above.



Triton is a fun reducing glass to try! It yields a wide range of colors - silver, pinks, blues, greens, and more!





© enVision 2009

Fire Divas Showcase!

Fab finds from the Fire Divas! Just search Fire Divas on etsy to find even more fabulous fire divas beads.

Silver Glass 101 – Annealing Temperature for Silver Glass

I have seen a lot of beadmakers complain that the colors on their beads going into the kiln are completely different than the colors coming out. Your kiln environment is the culprit.

Let’s talk about reducing silver glass first - for that’s an easier solution. If the iridescence on your beads disappear after annealing, you may choose to do one of the following, or both:
• your kiln has an oxidizing atmosphere, adding a small pea size piece of charcoal will alter the environment enough to eliminate this problem
• lower your annealing temperature – 10F/6C each time until the reducing silver glass retains its iridescence (see below for more information)

As for striking silver glass, if your beads come out dark brown, your beads have been re-struck in the kiln. These may be the reasons:
• Your temperature is re-striking the beads.
• If you have a kiln that has a short interior height (4-5 inches/10cm) and your beads are situated very close to the heating elements especially if they are elevated on a rack. Every time your kiln ramps up to the pre-set temperature, it goes full power which may lead to re-striking your beads.

Lower your annealing temperature 10F/6C each time until a spacer bead made with striking silver glass no longer re-strikes in your kiln. I find that for my kiln, it’s 920F/495C. When Terra first came out, Double Helix recommended annealing Terra at 930F/499C. Just make sure that you soak longer to compensate for the lower temperature (e.g. instead of 30 minutes, soak for an hour).

One last thought - when you garage anneal, every time you open and close your kiln door, the temperature in your kiln spikes up to 25F/14C either direction. To make sure that your kiln does not spike pass your annealing temperature, you may consider lowering your garaging temperature as well. For example, your kiln works best annealing at 930F/499C, then try a garaging temperature of 900F/483C.

Important note: Every kiln is different. First of all, make sure that your kiln controller is registering an accurate temperature by checking the digital controller temperature against a pyrometers (K2 pyrometers is recommended by many lampworkers). At a minimum, check your kiln at room temperature by leaving the kiln door open for about an hour and comparing that to a household thermostat.

Color 101 – Pantone Fall 2009 Color Trends

Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2009



For the pdf of the full 16-page report, click!

Silver Glass 101 – Striking Silver Glass Tutorial – Luna 2

Stephanie Bonniwell and I did this tutorial on how to work with Luna 2, a striking silver glass made by Double Helix Glassworks.




Step 1
Start by winding Clear onto the mandrel in a barrel shape with a footprint of about 1.25”/32mm.



Step 2
Wind Luna 2 on top of Clear, taking care to cover the Clear ends with Luna 2.



Step 3Completely encase Clear with Luna 2.



Step 4Heat enough to marver the glass into a smooth barrel shape.



Step 5Reheat and shape both ends. The glass will bloom as you are working and you should see brown tones, as well as of purples and blues.



Step 6While rotating the mandrel, reheat the middle of the bead until translucent and you see this section begin to droop.



Step 7Take it out of the flame and gently marver the middle as it is cooling. Allow the glass to cool until the glow is gone. Carefully place the bead under the table to verify.



Step 8Re-introduce the bead at the top of the flame and slowly reheat until it starts to glow orange. Take it out of the flame and brown tones should bloom at this stage.


Step 9Additional heating and cooling will yield more colors, from dark purples/blues to light purples/ blues. Do NOT heat till translucent again.


Step 10Spot heat when the dark purple meets the light tones, twist with a clear stringer, then snap or burn off the stringer.


Step 11Repeat spot heating and twisting a total of three times on each side of the central dark purple band.


Step 12Reheat the entire bead. Place bead in a preheated kiln to anneal.



Important Note:
Depending on how much you reheat the glass at each strike yields different colors. If overstruck, start all over by heating the glass translucent again.


© enVision 2009

Color 101 – Pantone Spring 2009 Color Trends

As a graphic designer, I have been using Pantone colors for decades! I especially love its fashion color reports . . . for inspiration if for nothing else.

Here is our first Color 101 entry . . . Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2009



For the pdf of the full 29-page report, click!

Playing with Hadar's Bronze and Copper Clay

A few of us have been taking classes with one of the premier metal clay artists, Hadar Jacobson, for the last few weeks. She is not only amazingly talented, she is also an incredible teacher! Moreover, she developed her own line of bronze and copper clay and she is very generous in sharing her invaluable experience in working with those clays on her blog.


A lentil I made in Hadar's class

We started playing with the Rio Grande pre-packaged BronzClay and were very frustrated with how varied the clay consistency from package to package. Rio's BronzClay was also very finicky - the actual time when it was in "perfect" working consistency was very short. It also needed to be chilled frequently.

We almost gave up working with this new metal clay!

Then we discovered Hadar's (and her newest copper clay)!

Here are some of the reasons why we love Hadar's bronze clay:
• It is in POWDER form, thus has an unlimited shelf life.
• Its powder form allows YOU to get the exact consistency every time by adding distilled water. It only takes a few minutes to do so.
• It's much more pliable and surprisingly malleable!
• It doesn't get brittled and dried as quickly as BronzClay
• It doesn't need to be chilled!
• It doesn't need lavender water!
• It stays in "perfect" working consistency for a long time.
• It doesn't need slip.
• You can combine her bronze clay with her copper clay! See her blog for some of her beautiful pieces!

Last but not least, she fires multiple kiln loads a week and has ironed out the firing schedules to ensure that YOU don't have to do the firing testing. All the information, again, is on her blog.


I love the patina on this simple pendant!